2013 Toyota 86 Part 3: The Workshop
Getting down and dirty
By Imthishan Giado
Now that the car’s been checked thoroughly for any sign that it could fall to bits, my 86 is on its way to the nearby Ramool workshop for some protective TLC.
Normally, the dealer sends cars to the dealership via flatbed. Unfortunately the truck had an issue and would require another day to arrive. Taking that into consideration, I authorised AFM to drive the car to Ramool with me following a short distance behind.
Even though it’s less than a kilometre from the DFC showroom to Ramool, the car still needs to be road registered. In this case, temp plates will do the job nicely.
Technically the first person to drive my car on the road…wasn’t me!
Watching another man drive your car is always nerve wracking, even in the best of hands.
Luckily, the journey through rush hour traffic is without incident.
Ramool is one of the biggest workshops and servicing centres I’ve ever seen. In essence a gigantic warehouse that stretches off into the horizon, most customers only see a small part of the facility, when they drop off their keys to a service advisor and then pick up in an hour or so.
According to Service Support Manager Majel, hundreds of vehicles pass through here daily for simple jobs like oil changes, washed, clean and then returned to customers.
There’s also sections for more serious repairs, advanced servicing and dealer-installed modifications like parking sensors, Bluetooth accessories and so on. Still more cars are here for accident repair both minor and major ; biff your car and this is where insurance will send it.
Before the car can enter the facility, all the interior bits that could be soiled by a dirty pair of overalls are carefully covered in plastic.
Protective plastic in place, the car plunges deep into the bowels of facility.
We pass through a bewildering array of service bays and arrive on the other side in a fairly nondescript steel shed in the back where the rustproofing service takes place.
Immediately, the fact that the entire ramp and lift are covered completely in cardboard tells you this isn’t going to be a short job.
The 86 is gingerly guided up on the paper-encrusted ramp where once again it receives a onceover from the duty foreman. This is the first car in the country that’s undergoing in the process and immediately, he identifies a problem with the undercarriage. Majel explains that since the car has extensive underbody aerodynamic shielding, the rustproofing can’t directly be sprayed on the body. So off those panels come, clips and all.
Half an hour later, the panels are off and the spotless underbody is exposed – and the real work can begin.
How often will you see this view of an 86?
The rustproofing liquid will mark and scar the original paint finish so the entire body has to be covered in brown paper which is secured with a special tape that won’t mark the finish come removal time. The same applies for anything underneath the body that’s made of aluminium (and hence can’t rust) like the exhaust.
Even for four men, it’s a long job. Due to the toxic nature of the rustproofing fumes, it can only be done outside and in 45-degree heat, that’s no picnic. In minutes, my clothes are completely soaked through sweat and I’m not even wearing thick overalls like the technicians do.
Once the wrapping’s finally complete, one man – just one experienced, Yoda-esque man – begins spraying the black rustproofing liquid on the undercarriage.
For the OCD-afflicted, this is your cue to look away.
This is a messy process with liquid oozing all over the underside of your shiny new car and honestly, quite painful to watch as your panels are coated in a black substance that looks like tar.
As I mentioned earlier, the fumes are very strong so it’s definitely masks on at this point.
After an eternity, sensei finishes his work. Time to peel the brown paper off and leave? Right on one, wrong on the other.
Once the world’s biggest Christmas present has been unwrapped it’s time to move on to the doors, trunk and engine lid. In the old days rustproofing liquid left an unsightly yellow residue which led many to spurn the process. Today, clear invisible liquids are available which leave no obvious signs.. The man with the sprayer quickly and efficiently works, spurting the liquid into existing gaps in the body. Unlike the black stuff underneath which takes a few hours to set, this liquid will never dry. So, er, don’t stick your fingers somewhere they shouldn’t be.
Now the rustproofing saga is complete the 86 moves to the other side of the yard where the tinting bay resides. I won’t bore you with the details since 99% of you will know what needs to be done, especially in a country like this. In this I elected to have the side and rear windows tinted to the maximum legal 30% limit using 3M’s CS35 film. Unfortunately the front windshield cannot be tinted at all, even with 100% clear film which is a real shame. In my previous cars it’s cut down immensely on glare and the invisible heat that causes a cabin to really warm up. Oh well – guess a windshield shade will have to do.
The tint requires 48 hours to dry properly so the car’s going back to the underground yard to await final delivery. Nearly there now.
Read more here!
Part 1: The Deal
Part 2: The Checklist
Part 3: The Workshop
Part 4: The Delivery
Part 5: First Service
Part 6: Clever Vs Dumb
